TT 515 





X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, 
lllitid AU Outer Garmenl' 





Class. 
Book_ 






.^Zl^p. 



CoffyrightN" 



COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT. 




INCE the establishment of our firm 50 years 
ago, the ladies of Chicago and environs, as 

I fc^Ji^ ' II well as our mail customers, have shown us 
the most generous patronage. We have long 

desired to show our appreciation of this fact. 

One of our hardest task has been to find a suit- 
able offering welcome and useful to all. 

After entering into the merits of many proposi- 
tions, we have at last decided upon the free distri- 
bution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' 
Teuloring System," which enables every one to take 
measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns, 
fit and make for herself or for her family, or for 
professional purposes. Suits, Waists, Dresses, or any 
Outer Garment, in accordance with the prevailing 
styles. 

It is our sincere hope that this book will be wel- 
come and invaluable in every household, and that it 
will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our 
patrons. 

The Excelsior Dry Goods Company. 



PARISIAN 
LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



fi 



or 



Designing, Pattern Cutting, Fitting and Making 

Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits 

And All Outer Garments 

A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE 
FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE 
SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS 



ith 



Over 100 Explanatory Drawings in Text, including Four Supplementary 

Charts 22x28 inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading 

Instruction for Professional Designers 



<. 



Z. ZEISLER 



Copyrighted 1917 
by 

A. Z. Zeisler 



\ 



o 



Contents 



^\ 



^ 



%"< 



II. 
III. 

IV. 



Page 

Testimonials 2 

Charts 3 

Bddy measurements; Figs. 1 

and 2 4 

Tlu' iiieasurenients and their 

order •> 

Measurements ol" lengtli and 

width .') 

Remarks on measurements ,") 
How to talve tlie measure- 
ments (i 

Around the bust .... (i 

Lenglli of l)ark .... fi 

Widlli of haek .... 

Lengtli of sides .... (i 

Around llie waist ... 7 

Size of arniliole .... 7 

Heiglit of shoulder ... 7 

Around tlie liips .... 7 

Width of chest .... 7 

Height ol' front .... 7 

Lengtli iif front .... 7 

Length of slujuhler . . . S 

Around the neck .... S 

Length of underarm . . S 

Circumference of arm . . S 

Preparing our scales ... 8 
Preparing the scale of 

length '.I 

Preparing the scale of 

width 9 

"J'he designing of the funda- 
mental waist pattern . . Id 

Remarks hefoi-e remeasiuing 

the fundamental iialtern 2(1 

Remeasiuing the measures 

of width 21 

Renieasuring the measures 

of length 22 

Adaption of the normal pat- 
tern for changed ligures . 23 
The forward bent ligure . 2.'! 
'''he backward bent figure . 21 
The ligure with broad back 
and flat chest .... 2.^ 



Page 
V. (Continued) 

The figure with full chest 

and flat back .... 2(1 
The figure with high 

shoulders 27 

The ligure with sloping 

shoulders 28 

The slender figure ... 29 
The .short built ligure . . 30 

y\. Cutting of lining and material 31 

VH. Constructing the upper and 

under sleeve .... 32 
Renieasuring the upper and 
under sleeve .... 34 

YITI. Possible changes in the 

fashions 35 

IX. The fundamental pattern the 
basis of designing and 
liatternmaking .... 38 

X. 'file shirtwaist in its different 

forms 38 

XT. Collar construction ... 46 

XII. Pockets 50 

XIII. Culls and sleeves .... 50 

XIV. 'file cutting of a circular skirt 

pattern 52 

XV. 'fhe cutting of the gored and 

])leated skirt .... 50 

XVI. Changing the fundamental 
pattern to seamed shoul- 
der effect in front and 
back CI 

XVII. ,\rraiiging the pattern for 
suits, .jackets and outer 
garments 64 

XVIII. The cutting of collars for 

tailored suits and cloaks . 06 

XIX. 'file cutting of capes from the 

fundamental pattern . . 82 

XX. For ])rofe;;sional designers: 

"The Grading" .... 85 



Tables I, II, III, IV, folded at end of book: 

I. Scales of length and width, "Original size." 
II. Full sized fundamental pattern of ba.sciue and sleeves. 
III. and IV. "Grading" for Professional Designcr.s. 



JAN 10 tyi8 



\,\n A 



\^ 



,\^ 



i\\ 



Preface 




VERY woman's ambition is to be at least as perfectly gowned 
as her neighbor. The secret of correct gowning lies in the 
correct fit of the garment to the individual figure of the 
wearer. 

We know that the styles change frequently from season 
to season, but we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is 
the "Fundamental Pattern " the so-called "Basque, " and after ^ve 
have this, we are able to execute any desired style according varia- 
tions in vogue. 

Many of our Cutting Academies, however, which still cling to 
"Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements 
the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock 
of stereotyped patterns in hand, and numerous sets of figures in 
mind, of which memory soon makes a jumble. 

Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the 
sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures, without 
discrimination. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking 
in, " or a "little letting out" of the original pattern in order to make 
it conform to the slim or stout figures of their patrons. As actual 
trial soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork, and of 
the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion, they are 
compelled to waste not only their time and labor in making neces- 
sary alterations, but also wear out the patience of their patrons, and 
in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting, 
comfortable and chic. 

For several years there has been a widespread demand for 
some rational course in Pattern Designing. The author, through long 
years of experience in foreign countries, and for years in Nev^f York 
with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern 
cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions, has planned this 
book to serve as a basis for such a course. At the same time its 
careful omission of all technical expressions, and its plain, simple 
language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" 
to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. 

In pattern designing there are three important considerations 
to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar. 
2) That no two human figures are exactly alike. 3) That styles 
vary with the seasons. 

Hence the author has sought to explain first, the making of a 
FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN, and secondly, all changes of form 
and style that can be made by modification of this pattern. 

It is certain therefore, that this book will be a boon to those 
who give instruction in dressmaking courses, to thousands who have 
chosen dressmaking as a profession, and also to the home dress- 
maker. 

A. Z. Zeisler. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Testimonials 

From Louis Grancr & Co.. Cloaks, Mantles, Etc., 305 Canal St.. New York, N. Y. 

To ■\vhoni it may concern : 

I consider the cutting system of Mr. A. Z. Zeisler as practical ami useful to 

LOUIS GRANER. 



ladies makiufi' their own garments. 



Ji/^^. 



-^^^.^ 







^,^. 







From L. Adler, 

Manufacturer of Furs, 

39 St. Marks Place, 
NcAv York, N. Y. 

To Mr. A. Z. Zeisler : 

At your request I herewith cheer- 
full j' testify that 3'ou have been mak- 
ing i^atterns for my customers, and 
that the garments tlius made fit ex- 
actly without being tried on fir.st. 

Therefore I, as well as my Inisiness 
relations, are thoroughly pleased 
with your system. 

Respectfully, 

L. ADLER. 



Mr. A. Z. Zeisler, Practical Designer, Clevelaiul, Ohio. 

At present in Cleveland. 

Dear Professor : 

The luulersigned, a committee of your pupils, beg leave to hand you here- 
with a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest 
appreciation of you as our teacher. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable 
course we went through, aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explana- 
tion of the Tailor Sy.stem. Well may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found 
your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for four- 
teen evening lessons, we are now fully enabled to make all kinds of patterns in the 
ladies' dresses and cloak branch, and to grade them most accurately, in a way sur- 
passing all that was known heretofore. 

All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of the 
pupils of your evening course. 

Very Respectfidly, 

THE COMMITTEE. 
Adolf Barber, J. Goodman, C. Goodman. 



PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 



Charts 

(At end of volume.) 



TABLE I 
The Scales of Length and Width in Original Size 

The scales of length divided into sixteen (16) equal parts from 
a 13-inch length of back to ITJ inches. 

The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts 
from a 30-incIi (1.5-ineli lialf measurement) to 4S-inch (24-inch 
half measurement) around the bust. 

TABLE II 
A Full Sized Fundamental Pattern of Basque and Sleeves 

A full sized 86 figure fundamental pattern of basque and 
sleeves, with a scale of all width and length measurements and 
construction lines, showing how they are made. 

For Professional Designers 

(See explanation on page 85) 

TABLE III 

The grading of upper and under sleeves, in full, from a 36 
figure down to 30, and up to 48, giving a tabulation of all the 
necessary measurements. 

Table IV 

The proper grading of front, back, and side parts in full. 
from a 36 figure down to a 30, and up to a 48 bust measure, ac- 
companied by a chart giving all required measurements, and also 
showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose 
one. 




Around the Bust. 
Length of Back. 
Width of Back, 
Length of Sides. 
Around the Waist, 



10. 



Size of Armhole. 
Height of Shoulder, 
Around tlie Hips. 
Width of Chest. 
Height of Front. 



11. 

li;. 

*13. 

14. 



Length of Front. 
Lengtii of Slioulder. 
Around tlie Necli. 
Lengtii of Under Arm. 
Circumference of Arm. 



* Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Measurements and Their Order 

(See Fig. 1—2) 

The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thor- 
ough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and 
by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the 
model. 

The diagrams. Fig 1 — 2, show in which way and in what order the measure- 
ments are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to pro- 
duce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements. 

In the making of waists, suits, skirts, and all outer garments, we need the 
following fifteen measurements in order. 



*1. Around the bust 

2. Length of back 

*3. Width of back 

4. Length of sides 

*5. Around the waist 



6. 

7. 
*8. 
*9. 
10. 



Size of armhole 
Height of shoulder 
Around the hips 
Width of chest 
Height of front 



11. Length of front 

12. Length of shoulder 
''lo. Around the neck 

14. Length of inider arm 

15. Circumference of arm 



Measurements of Length and Width 

(See Fig. 1 — 2) 

In taking the measurements we notice that all our measurements are 
length and width measurements. 



The Measurements of Length Are: 



4. 

7. 



Height of front 
Length of front 



12. 
IL 



Length of shoulder 
Length of luider arm 



Length of back 10. 

Length of sides 11. 

Height of shoulder 

All length measurements are to be recorded in full. 

6. Size of armhole. 15. Circumference of arm, altho not length measure 
ments are also recorded in full. 



The Measurements of Width Are: 



*9. Width of chest 
'^IS. Around the neck 



*1. Around the bust I *5. Around the waist 
*3. Width of back I *8. Around the hips 

In the width measurements only one-half of the measurements taken are 
recorded. 

Remarks on Measurements 

In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advis- 
able to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in 
order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner. 

All of the examples given in this book are based upon 36 bust figure with 
a length of back of 15 inches. 

Figs. 1 — 2 show that in taking the measurements we begin from the back of 
the model, measuring, namely: 



*1. Around the bust 

2. Length of back 
*3. Width of back 



4. Length of sides 
*5. Around the waist 



6. Size of arm hole 

7. Height of shoulder 



♦Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Tliis done, we proceed from the front of the tigure, as shown in Fig. 1 — 2 
and measure : 



*8. Around the liips 
*9. Width of chest 
10. Height of front 



11. Length of front 

12. Length of shoulder 
*13. Around the neck 



14. Length of under arm 

15. Circumference of arm 



How to Take the Measurements 

(See Fig. 1—2) 

All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular 
36-inch around th<' bust figure, with a length of back of 15 inches. All illus- 
trations in this book are based on the same model. 



* 1 . Around the Bust 



Around the bust, 
18 inches. 

One-half of tin- bust meas- 
ure. 



This measurement is taken from tlie back of 
the model, around the fullest part of the 
bust, under the arms, and around the back, 
about six inches below the collar. 
Record onlv one-half. 



2. Length of Back 



Length of back, 
15 inches. 

"Write as follows : 
15/26/51 

By this we understand 
that our length of 
back is 15 inches to 
the waist line, 26 
inches for jacket 
length, and 51 inches 
from the neck bone to 
the bottom of the skirt. 



Take this measurement along the center of the 
back, from the neck bone down along the 
spine, to the waist line, and 

Record in full. 

If we take this measurement for a jacket or 

coat, we write this length also. 
If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt 

we record all three in full, as shown in the 

opposite colunni. 



* 3. Width of Back 



*3. Width of back, 
62- inches. 

One-half of the measure. 



lie careful to take this measiirement neither 
too narrow nor too wide — always according 
to the actual fashion — across the back from 
one armhole to the other, with the arms 
dropped in natural position at sides. 
Record onlv one-half. 



4. Length of Side 



4. Length of side, | 

8-i inches. J 

Write 8-1/27/52, as the ^ 

three desired lengths, [ 



This measurement is taken from the arm- 
pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts 
measure down to the desired lengths, and 
record as shown in the opposite column in 
full. 



•Record One-half of all Measurements Marked (*). 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



5. Around the Waist Measurement 



Around the waist, 
13 inches. 

One-half of tlie measure- 
ment. 



J 



W(> take this 
where the 
marked, and 



measurement 
waistline is 



from 
most 



Record only one-half. 



the back, 
distinctly 



Size or armhole, 
16 inches. 



6. Size of Armhole 

f Taken from the back around the arm socket, 
J where the sleeve joins the dress. Take care- 
fully, as arms are differently developed. 

Record in full. 



Height of shoulder, 
33i inches. 



7. Height of Shoulder 



This is an important measurement, as some 
models have sloping and some high shoul- 
ders. Begin at the waist line in the center of 
the back, run over the highest point of the 
shoulder, along the most developed part of 
the bust, down to the center waistline in the 
front. 

Record in full. 



8. Around the Hips 



*8. Around the hips, 
20 inches. 
One-half. 



L 



Tliis measure is taken from the front around 
the most pronounced part of the hips, about 
7 inches below the waistline. 

Record only one-half. 



*9. Width of chest, 
8^ inches. 
One-half. 



Width of Chest 

Take along front from one armhole to the other 
in a downward inclined bow line over the 
most developed part of the bust. 

Record only one-half. 



10. Height of Front 



10. Height of front, 
21 inches. 



1 



Begin at the back neck bone at the base of the 
neck, run over the shoulder to the center of 
the front to the waistline. 

Record in full. 



11. Length of front, 
16/26/51 



I I. Length of Front 

^ Tliis measurement begins in front at the base 
of the neck and runs down to the waistline. 
J For jackets and skirts, measure down to the 
required length of these garments. 
Record in full. 



Record One-half of aU Measurements Marked (*). 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



12. Ijciigth of shoulder, 
5 inches. 



12. Length of Shoulder 



Measure I'l-oui the base of the neck along shoul- 
der to the arm socket. This length depends 
upon prevailing fashions, and could be made 
shorter or longer, as explained later. 
Record in full. 



*13. Around tlie neck, 
64 inches. 



* I 3. Around the Neck 



/ 



Run the tape measure around the base of the 
neck. 

Record one-half. 



1 4. Length of Under Arm 



14. Length of under arm. 
8J — 18 iuchea. 



M<'asuri' fi'oni the armpit down to the inside of 
the elbow .ioint then down to the wrist, 
and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures 
as shown in opposite column. 

Record in full. 



15. Circumference of Arm 



15. Circumference of arm, 
10 inches. 



Pass till' tape around tin- thickest part of the 
arm, ami 

Record in full. 



Preparing Our Scales 

(See Tables I— IT at end of Volume) 

Since our system is based \ipon length and a\ idth measurements, we need 
cori-ect scales of mi-asuri'mrnts in order to design a fundamental pattern for each 
model. 

Our scale of length is based upon measurenu'ut (two) 2. the length of back. 

The scale of width depends upon measurement (one) 1, the around the bust 
measure. 

In our previous study we saw that the length of back of a regular 36 
figure is 15 inches and that 18 inches was recorded as one-half of the around the 
bust measurement. With these in mind we are ready for our scale. 



* Record One-half of aU Mpasiirements Marked (■•). 



.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Scale of Length 

Take a strip of paper one inch in width, exactly as long as the length of 
back to the -waistline. In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches. 

Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts, and each of these divisions 
again into four equal parts. Thus the whole length of back is divided into 
sixteen (16) parts, which serve as our scale of length. 

Kemember that if the length of l)ack is shorter, the divisions will be 
shorter, and if we have a longer length of back, the divisions will be longer, 
but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts. 



The Scale of Width 

In preparing the scale of width, do not forget that we use as a basis one- 
half of the around the bust measurement. In our illustration of the 36 model, we 
recorded 18 inches. 

Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide, exactly one-half as long as the 
around the bust measure. Fold inta three equal parts. Then refold each of 
those equal parts into three. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. 
We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts. 

In tlu' illustration each of these parts is one (1) inch long, but do not 
forget, 1st. that tin- size of the parts vary with the bust mea.sure ; 2d, that 

, one-half of the around tlie bust measure is always divided into eighteen (18) equal 
•^ parts. 

Remarks About the Scales 

For convenience in making the scales of length and width easily and cor- 
rectly, 3'ou will find at the end of the book in Table I, scales of length from 
13 to 174 inches length of back, and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies one-half 
aro^^nd the bust measurement. 

These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for 
both Df our scales, as they have the advantage of being divided correctly. 

If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each 
on a separate strip of cardboard, we have both of our scales in readiness for any 
size of figure, and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed. 

For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales of 
lengtli and width are prepared for any figure, should he be called upon to 
make these scales himself. 

Bear in mind simpl.y that the scale of length is always divided into six- 
teen (16) parts, and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts. 

"With the length and width scales in hand, we are now prepared to start 
the designing of our fundamental waist pattern. 



10 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Designing of the "Fundamental Waist Pattern' 



TTT 



TTT 



TTT 



TTT 



Tl 



Z e ^ 9 9 f^ 8 O 01 II ol 



Fig. 3 



TAILORS' SQUARE 



Fig. 3A 




TRACING-WHEEL 



Fig. .3 shows us a tailoriv square. Fig. 3A, a traeing- 
■H-lu'cI. Both are needed for correct drawing and tracing. 
"Witli this tailor's square wt' ju-epare on a sheet of paper 
lines perpendicular to each other, as shown in Fig. 4, and 
mark the same A — B and A — C. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



11 



B 



Fig. 4 

Reduced to One-fourth 
Mark the horizontal line A — B and the vertical line A — C. 



A 
2 



81 



12^ 



17 19 



Fig. 5 

Reduced to One-fourth 



B 



51 



8i 



14J 



Having drawn our lines perpendicular to each other, 
we begin to mark the points of widtli with our scale of 
width, along our horizontal line from A to B, as shown 
in Fig. .5. 

Using one part of our scale of width as our unit of 
measure, we mark off respectively 4, 8j, 1^^, 17, 19 times 
this distance along A — B, thus adding one unit part to 
our scale of width. These points we call our width points. 

With one part of our scale of length as our unit of 
measure, we proceed, according to the diagram in Pig. 5, 
to mark off 2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times the length of this unit 
from A toward C, and call these points our length points. 

We readily see that the length and width points vary 
with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale, for 
we must not forget that the length of these parts are 
1/16 and 1 IS of their respective measurements. 



12 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Next we take measurement 11. Length of front, sixteen (16) inches in the 
illustration, hut always the exact measurement of the lengtli of front of the model, 
and beginning- at the length point 2, measure this distance along A — C. Letter this 
point z. as sliown in the illustration. Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6 



14.1 



8^ 



121 



17 



19 



B 



Fig. 6 shows vertical lines drawn from the width points parallel to A — C 
and horizontal lines drawn from the length points parallel to A — B. 

The numberings of our length and width jioints are necessary only in the 
beginning, as an aid in memorizing these dimensions. They may later be omitted 
in making the fundamental pattern. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



13 



In Fig. 7 we have added certain lines and points to our preceding figure, 
namely : 

1st. An auxiliary line parallel to A — B, drawn from a point -]- inch above z. 

2d. An auxiliary line parallel to A — B, drawn from the point b. Avhich 
is one (1) inch above the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches above z. 

Fig. 7 



8i 



12^ 



19 



51 



3d. Point a. Avhich is one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The 
bow line from a crossing our 5^ line and ending about half way between Si — 14-J- 
on the vertical line A — C, forms our front line. 

4th. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. 

5th. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our 
front shoulder line. 

6th. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our 
darts or dart. 

7tli. The full line extending through f — g to the z line is our center back 
line. 

8th. The points c, one unit part of the scale of width, and d, one-half of 
one unit part of our scale of width, measured respectively from points wliere line 
5| crosses lines 8^ and 12i. 

These points will be used in connection with the formation of armhole 
lines. 



14 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp- addi- 



tions : 



Fig. 8 



12.1 



17 19 



5i 



8i 



14J 



m. 




B 



At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 
are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the 
bottom line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4, and 
thus form our dart. 

The curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line, passes 

through c. m, d. to tlie intersection of the line 5^—17 and the full 12^ 

line. This gives the armholc. 

From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale 
of length and mark this point s. Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line, to secure 
the back line collar cut-out as marked in lines. 

From point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the dis- 
tance s— i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our 
model figure). 

At i we have i — j perpendicular to s — i meeting the 121- hne at j. 

From point i, i — o is parallel to auxiliary line b. 

Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. This curved 
line represents our front and side waist line. 

Point m is about one unit part of our scale of width distant from the inter- 
section of line 8-1 and 8i. From point m the line m— n is drawn to about the 
center of the lowest line'. The points need not be exactly measured, as any devia- 
tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. If 
both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is 
better balanced. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



15 



In Fig. 9 we see the same lines we have mentioned in our former tigure plus 
the following: 



ig- 





4 


8i 


m 


17 




19 


A 








'^~~ --..,,.. 




, - ' ' 




. s 

7 


2 


a . •■' 


~^- 


>- ^ ' ' ■ 


' " 




/ 


1 










I 






_,-'''• 




^^ ^ ^ 




/ 






_ - " 




"^ -^ 




/ 




/ ,--- 






■"■ --. 




/ 
















H 


X'-'" 


Cj 


d, . 


t 


~- 


~X 




1 










81 






. . m. • 


e ■■: 






02 




,-' 


hi 

% 




/ 


1 


14J 




', 


1 1 ' 




/ 






1 


\ 


1 1 I 

iiii^i- — 




g 




b 


1 


'> r 


^^Pr — ~ 









z 


k; 


...■l^. 


__An\ 

1 ' 1 


____- , 


- - 


_ 



B 



From point a to 4 we see in about a quarter circle, in lines, our cut- 
out for the front neck. We also notice in lines above the front slioulder 

line a slight curve of ^ of an inch that e.^ctends from the S| line half way to 4. and 
diminishes gradually to correspond to the anatomical build of the shoulders. 

We observe in lines from our auxiliary line b. at u. rounded cut- 
outs to the line of the side front and also to the corresponding line of tlie side, 
which gives us the shape at the waist line. 

We also notice a line from our front bottom line z to point k, making tlie 
front dart line to k shorter than to 1. This we will explain in our next figure. 

The line, starting at the armhole and crossing lines 55 and 12.1- at t 

and extending downwards to our bottom line, in a curve, gives us tlie side line for 
the back. 



16 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



From till' foot of our back side line we measure on line z a distance equal 
to one-half of the unit part of the scale of width. From this point we draw a 

straight construction line in lines to our back side line, which it meets 

about lialf way between 8| and Hi. From here we follow the back side curve 
to the 8^ line and thence curve to d. This gives us the side part that connects 
with tlie back. 




From u measure both right and left a distance equal to one-half a unit 
part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and m with 
line. 

We note also that in lines to point v, a little rounded cut-out gives 

the side piece a correct curve-in at the waist line. We next extend the waist 
line from o to this line. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



17 



Prevailing fashions dictate -whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be 
narrow or wide, and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts, 
or vica versa, as either would be correct, and would make no particular difference 
in the structure of the pattern. In the same way we make our front parts narrower 
or wider, as we shall see in our next figure. 

In Fig. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. We have omitted 
all our construction lines for our fundamental pattern, and have worked instead 
in heavy lines. Our remarks following explain our new lines. 

Fig. 11 




In this figure we notice at a glance that our back side line, which joins our 
side piece is longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line, and that the corre- 
sponding side line of the side part is shorter at the top and longer at the waistline. 
But after cutting out our pattern we will find that both of these correspond ex- 
actly in their length from the top to the waist line. 

In Fig. 10 we find in and in lines an illustration of the 

making of a short "basque" and in heavy lines a longer differently shaped 

extension below the waist line. 



18 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

From our front line, l-li, we notice in lines extending toward our 

end line z and beyond, a cut-out of one-half of a unit part of the scale of width 
diminishing towards our hip line. 

We find also that the dart line to k is shorter than the dart line to 1. Stretch- 
ing the first to the length of the second in sewing, will secure a better fit. 

In eases of stout figures it is of the utmost importance to make two darts 
instead of one, and also two side parts instead of one, to secure a better fit, and 
an exact division of breaking points. IIow these changes are made is described 
and shown in Fig. \1. 

From k to 1 we see our original single dart, which we have constructed in 
Fig. S measuring two unit parts of the scale of Avidth on each side of line 4 
along base line z. 

Now in ]ilaee of this one dart we must construct two darts, but both of 
these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width ; 
that is, the exact measure of one dart. 

Along line z measure both to the right and left of line 4, a distance equal 
to one unit part of our scale of width, marki]ig points w and z. At these points 

draw lines parallel to line 4 to meet dart line 14^ e at p and q. Now 

along line z, l)oth to right and left of line 4, mark off points at distance of i a 

unit part of the scale of width, and connect respectively with p and q in 

lines. Next connect by means of lines p and q. with points that measure 

one and one-half (lil unit parts of th(^ scale of width from z and w. 

Tims we see that each of these darts measure two luiit parts of our scale 
of widiii. and are therefore no wider togctlie)- than one dart, which we remem!)er 
measures four unit parts. 

Now connect with lines tlie following: Dart one from the front 

bottom line, to liui' ] of an inch above bottom line. The second dart 

line of the first dart, with the first dart line of the seeond dart, from tin- bottom 

line to line i of an inch above bottom line. The second dart and 

point r. 

The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length, but nuist 
be stretched, as we found it was necessai-y to do in the case of the single dai-t in 
order to secure shapeliness in the garment. 

"We further see in Fig. 11 the division of the one side part of our previous 
figure into two side parts, which we can make narrower or wider at will. We 
must, however, bear in mind that the width of the cut-outs between the two side 
parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original 
side cut-out at u, which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width. 

Fig. 12 shoM-s the basque waist line in line passing through 1, r, 

n, and ending in line v, and the back line which is between j and i. 

As we have stated before, all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque." 
which is the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. If, however, the basque is not de- 
sired, we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front 
Avaist line. 



PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSILM 



19 



Fig. 12 




tions, 
to pr 
back 

aside 



In this fig-ure point x is taken eqni-distant 
from point A and 4 along line A — B. Now with 
a thread looped for a pencil, as shown in the 
figure by the lines, from x as the pivot point 
for a thread held with the left thumb, describe 
the heavy broken ark z, u. 

This gives a Avaist line which we- shall use in 
all future fundamental patterns. 

auxiliary line i inch above was of 
value only in the construction of the basque 
waist line, and may now be omitted from our 
future drawings. 

Fig. 1.3 shows a simplified pattern with 

many explanatory lines and lines that show 

deviation from the original pattern, omitted. 

When this pattern has been correctly drafted, according to previous instrue- 

. place a sheet of paper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together 

event slipping), and with tracing wheel (Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and 

along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay 

the original drawing for future reference. 



20 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 13 




With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us 
we proceed to remeasure our pattern. 

Remarks Before Remeasuring the 
Fundamental Pattern 

Fig. 14 — 15 explain how the tliree dif- 
ferent parts of the pattern, front, side, and 
back, are placed before we are able to re- 
measure according to the fifteen (1.5) body 
measurements previously made, beginning 
with measure 1 and ending Avith 1.5. 

The measurements, 8, around the liips: 
14, length of arm; 15, circumference of 
arm, we will find in our later diagrams. 

We find that in order to measure 7, 
height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, 
length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the 
back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 — 15), to enable us to com- 
pare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to 
their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Z] 



Fie. 14 



*3. 

*5. 
*j 

*9. 
12. 
13. 



Around the bust, 18. 
Width of back, 6i. 
Around tlie waist, 13. 
Around the hips, 20. 
Width of chest, 8^ 
Length of shoulder. 5. 
Around the neck, 6^. 




Remeasuring the Measures of Width 

Li remeasuring, our pattern, -we lind siiown in Fig. li the results of the 
width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half 
measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around 
the waist, 12|; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 
13|. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct ; the slight difference 
which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show 
in the future diagrams. 



22 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Remeasuring the Measurements of Length 

"\Yc liave explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern 
in Fig-. 14. The same rule applies to the remeasuring of our measurements of 
length in Fig. 15. 



2. 

4. 

6. 

7. 
10. 
11. 



Length of back, 15. 
Length of side, 82. 
Size of armhole, 16. 
Height of shoulder, 33| 
Height of front, 21. 
Length of front, 16. 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



23 



Adaption of the Normal Pattern to So-called Slightly Changed Figures 

We would be making- a serious mistake to assume 
that every tigure is perfectly normally built; that is to 
say, that every tigure is built iu exactly the same pro- 
portion as our 36 model, given in our drawings. 

In most cases, however, we are able to make slight 
alterations which correct the slight differences that arise 
through the variations in proportions. In such cases we 
consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they 
do not come up to the standard model. 

The Forward Bent Figure 

Fig 16 shows a forward bent figure. In Fig. 17, in 

heavy lines, we see the regular or fundamental 

pattern, and in lines variations from this, 

necessary for the model shown in Fig. 16. Thus we 
see that iu cases iu which the back is somewhat bent 
forward, the back part must be a little longer, that the 
back shoulder with the neck cut-out nuist be changed, 
and that the front shoulder and front line must be short- 
ened. Such slight changes that may be necessary can 
easily be made if a little extra material is allowed in the 
seams. 





24 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 18 




The Backward Bent Figure 

111 Figs. 18 and 19 we .see an exactly opposite case, 
namely tlie backward lieiit figure. Therefore the back 
must he shortened by changing the neck and shoulder 
line, and both front shoulder and front line must be 
lengthened. All other necessary changes are also marked 
in lines, to distinguish them from the funda- 
mental ijattern, marked in full lines. 



Fig. 19 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



25 



Fig. 20 




The Figure with Broad Back and Flat 
Chest 

Fig. 20 shows us a wide back, and in 

Fig. 21 we notice in lines all 

the changes we have made in onr funda- 
mental pattern, which is shown in heavy 
lines. 

Our back, we note, has been widened, 
while the chest has been made proportion- 
ately narrower. Our shoulder lines have 
also been changed. 




26 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fis. 22 




The Figure with Full Chest and Flat Back 

Fig. 22 shows us a figure with full chest. 

In Fig. 23 we see iu lines the neces- 
sary changes from our fundamental pattern. We 
notice that the back has been made narrower and 
the front wider for the full bust, and that the 
shoulder line of the back has also been slightly 
changed. 



Fig. 23 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



27 



Fig. 24 




The Figure with High Shoulders 

Fig. 24 shows us high shoulders, and 
Fig. 25 the fundamental pattern in full 
lines, and the necessary changes in 

lines. We have raised the 

height of the shoulders of the front part 
as well as the hack, as they would have 
heen too low for this figure, according to 
the measurements taken 

We have also changed the armhole. 
Tlie tape measure on these three parts 
shows these changes clearlv. 



Fig. 25 




28 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 26 




The Figure with Sloping Shoulders 

Fig. '26 sliow.s us the sloping shoulder. 
lu Fig. 27 we see that we have increased 

the slope of our shoulder lines in 

lines, in order to make the measurements 
of the height of shoulder correspond to 
the measurements of our model in Fig. 
26. 

Tiu' armhole has also heen slightly 
altered. 



Fig. 27 




PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTLM 



29 




Fig. 28 



The Slender Figure 

Fig. 28 shows us a slender figure, in which 
the following measurements are longer than the 
normal model : the length of the back, the 
length of sides, the height of shoulder, the height 
of front, the length of front, and the length of 
under arm. 

The lines in Fig. 29. indicate the 

slight changes to he made in the fundamental 

pattern, if after re- 
measuring we notice 
that the length meas- 
urements of the pat- 
tern do not exactly 
agree with those of 
the model. 

In drawing our 
fundamental pattern 
all these parts will 
work out correctly. 




Fig. 29 



30 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Short Built Figure 

Fig'. 30 slioAvs the sliort built figure, and there- 
fnrr the fuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter 
tiiau tile uornuil. 

In Fig. 31 the lines, marking length 

of back, length of sides, height of shoulder, height 
of front, and length of front are shorter than the 
full lines marking the original fundamental pat- 

tel'll. 

e no^v given the most important devia- 
nornnd which the pupil may 
encounter in actual 
work Avith different 
models, and we have 
tried to show how to 
meet these difficulties 
by making the cor- 
rect variations in 
our patterns. 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



31 



The Cutting of Lining and Material 

After all corrections liave been made, and our fundamental pattern has 
l)een changed to correspond with the measurements of our figure, we j)roeeed to 
the cutting of our linings and materials. 

In the first place we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) 
on the material, as this would lie on the body if ready to wear. The iieavy lines 
indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams, the width of the 
heavy lines being the measure. 

The general allowance for seams is f of an inch, except for the center Vinek. 
shoulders and front line, in which case we allow | of an inch. 

An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1| inches is made along 
the front line for a hem, buttons and button holes. 

On the right front, however, I of an inch of this extra allowance must be 
cut away in order that this front, wliich contains button holes, shall properly 
lap over our buttons, and thus give a centrally located front line. 

Fig. 32. A .shows the front, B side part, C the back of our pattern. 




The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise 
on our material, if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both 
waist and sleeve. 



32 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Constructing the Upper and Under Sleeve 
In Fig. 33, D — E, and Fig. 3-t, F — G, we show the construction of two differ- 
ent sleeves, the first a Avider one for use in jackets and outer garments, the 
second a narrower one for dresses, suits, etc. 

"We will find other sleeves in our later examples. 

As in our fundamental waist pattern, we first draw the lines perpendicular 
to each other with the "tailors' square," lettering the horizontal line A — B and 
the vertical line A — C. From point A, along A — B, measure the width points 
with the scale of width, marking off 3|, 7, SI times one unit part of the scale. 

Next from point A along A — C, meas- 
ure 2J and -i^ unit parts of the scale of 
width. (These first two measurements of 
the sleeves are always measured with the 
scale of width.) 

From point A we next measure 12, 
21-1- and 23 inches along A — C. 

(All these points are always meas- 
ured in inches.) 

Finish the drawing of cross lines as in 
the diagram. 

The distance from f to n.is li inches, 
from n to d, 9| inches, making the length 
of the under sleeve in Fig. 33 and 34, 17 
inches for our 3G model. 

But we miast remember that the dis- 
tance from f to n and n to d must always 
correspond to the measurements taken 
from the actual figure of the model. 

"We notice in Fig. 33 and 34 that from 
point over 3|- to e Ave draw a semi- 
circle for our sleeve ball. 

"We first connect points e and f with 

lines, then draw our curve e f 

with a maximum distance of -] of an inch 

from the lines just made. We 

have now the curve of the upper sleeve. 

From point f through n, Avhich marks 
the intersection of lines 7 and 12, to the 
intersecting point of lines 8-|- and 21-1, 
draw a curve for the underarm seam of 
upper sleeve. 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



33 




The heavy line connecting the last 
point d with the intersecting- point of 
lines 3-2 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve. 

Connect with lines the end of 

bottom of sleeves and 12, for the auxil- 
iary onter line of npper sleeve. 

Next measure in from point 4| a dis- 
tance of ^ of an inch, marking point t. 
Connect o and t with a curve. From t 
continue in double curves, as shown in 
figure, to a j^oint a little below 12 in the 
auxiliary line before made. Make the 
rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. "We 
now have our npper sleeve and proceed 
to the under sleeve. 

In Fig. 33, D, from point a, | inch 
along 3^ line, above the intersection of 

3^ and 2|, draw the line a — g. 

Point g is half way between lines A — C 
and 3^ on line 12. Connect g and h, 
which is one (1) inch along the bottom 
sleeve line, also with lines. Com- 
plete the heavy line a — h by connecting 

the lines just made with an elbow 

curve near g. This forms the outer curve 
of the under sleeve. 

Along line 4i mark with b a point 
halfway between 3i and 7. Connect 
with curve a, b. c and r, for cut- 
out of under arm. Note in figure that 
curve a — b reaches its highest point i of 
an inch away from line a — b. 

Now connecting r and n, and continu- 
ing along the line of the upper sleeve 
curve, we get the inner curve of lower 
sleeve. 

We notice lines connecting n and d which is equidistant from 7 

and 8.1. This line marks a narrower nndersleeve. 

In Fig. 34, F and G, the following changes have been made ; 

In the upper sleeve, point t is one (1) inch instead of -] of an inch distant 
from 4J. Line t — k is parallel to o — 12, and line k — 1 passing through the inter- 
section of lines 21-J and 3^ meets the bottom line a trifle above 23. 

The elbow rounding connecting these two lines near k is the same as in 

Fig. 33. In the nndersleeve the lines a — g and g — h. with tlw (■ll)ow 

rounding near g, show the onter curve of a narrower nndersleeve. We also notice 
a curve along a — g, -} of an inch from i. 



34 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 35 



Remeasuring the Upper and Under Sleeves 

As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development, we 
must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide 
nor too narrow. 

Fig. 3") shows how 6. size of armholi', 14, length of underarm, 15, eir- 
cumferenee of arm, are to lie I'emeasiired. 

If need he. wi- lengthen or shorten the sleeve a little, as the case may he, 
or widen or narrow it, to make it correspond to the measurements taken. 

\Ye must hear in 
mind, however, that 
the measure of the 
top of the upper 
sleeve, that is the 
sleeve ball, together 
with the cut-out of 
the u n d e r sleeve, 
must a 1 w a y s be 
about two inches 
larger than the arm- 
hole measure taken 
on the model. 

In finishing t li e 
garment, the arm- 
hole of the waist 
must be stretched 
while the curve of 
the upper arm must 
be held in, in order 
to ;_;ecure ease of 
movement for the 




W 



e nnist add 1\ 
2 inclies to the 
th of sleeves for 
ng. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



35 



Fig. 36 shows oui' sleeve pattern without construct ion liiu^s. A is the 
upper, and J> the under sleeve. The heavy lines, f of an inch in width, uuirk the 
allowance for the seams. An extra 1-i to 2 inches, as before mentioned, must be 
allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. 



Fig. 36. 




Possible Changes in the Fashions 

The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the funda- 
mental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same 
shape, regardless of changes of styles. 

The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause 
any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in 
vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made. 



36 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fie. 37 




Fig. 38 




In Fig. 37, A, we see the upper part of 
the front, side, and back of our funda- 
mental pattern marked in full lines. In 

lines we see how to make a 

change for a narrower front and back 
shoulder. 

Always bear in mind that the auxil- 
iary slioulder lines are the same, and that 
only the cut-out of the armliole has been 
enlarged, thereby forming a larger arm- 
hole and leaving narrower shoulders. 
"We readily see that we must increase the 
size of the arm ball, in order to be able 
to ease our sleeve properly into the arm 
cut-out of the waist. 

Fig. 38 shows us the fundamental 
sleeve pattern in full lines and the newly 

formed curve of the armball in 

lines. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



37 



Fig. 39 



y 


^^-^ 


^^ ,-'-r' 


y^^^ 




/ 


- " " ' / ' 


7 


■^ ^ 


1 


I-'-' 


// 

h 


( 


"" -- ^ 


J 


\ 




B h 


\ 












\ 


i 



Fig. 40 




Just the opposite is demonstrated in 
Pig. 39, B, namely the formation of a 
longer shoulder line. To do this, we add 
the desir(^d length to both our shoulder 
lines, along the auxiliary shoulder line. 

We notice that through this change 
of j)attern the armhole will be smaller. 
Therefore our armball nuist also be made 
smaller. 

Fig. 40 shows the fundamental sleeve 

pattern in full lines and in the 

lines the new curve of the armball neces- 
sary to make a perfect fittiiig sleeve. 



38 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSl EM 



The Fundamental Pattern the Basis of Designing and Pattern Making 

Now tliat \v(> liavc mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we 
are ready to study the making of changes necessary to form patterns of shirt- 
waists aiiil hlouses. 

We shall also .see how garments may he lengthened or shortened, how the 
one-piece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern, and how collars and 
cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations due to changing fashions can be made. 

Of course only a few problems in construction are illusti'ated. l)ut these 
are of such a nature that we feel assitred that the intelligence of our readers can 
cope with further problems through the study of tliese. 

We shall give tlie making of the sliirtwaist pattern first place in our illus- 
trations. 

The Shirtwaist In Its Different Forms 

Fig. 41 shows us a shirtwaist pattern, the making of which will be fully 
explained. 

It A\(.iuld be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44, 
together with 41. in order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes made in 
front, back, side, and upper and lower sleeves. 

In Fig. 42 we have A — B perpendictdar to A — C. Place the fundamental 

pattern (in lines) in such a position that b. the shoulder point falls 

along A — B. and a, the neck cut-out along A — C at such an angle that c. the point 
of center front waist line measures two ('2) unit parts of our scale of width from 
d on A — ('. Note that the dart lines have been left in the pattern, but as they are 
of no value in our present problem, we ignore them. 

Our fundamental pattern now takes position e — f — e. From f measure 
along the c — f line prolonged, a distance to g. ecpials to one (1) unit part of the 
scale of width, and connect e — g, as shown in lines. 

We readily understand that the waist measure of the front of our shirt- 
waist pattern is three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our 
fundamental pattern, the extra allowance falling from d to e and f to g. 

From d to C measure two inches and draw u — v. parallel to d — g. which 
we note is our waist line. This extra length may be gathered for peplum above 
or below skirt. 

From point L a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a — b, 

draw the line L — y, to form the V-shaped neck, shown in Fig. 41. The 

line b — F. from the shoulder to a point lower down the front line, 

shows a deeper cut-out. The triangle L — ci — y, in lines and triangle 

b — p — F in — lines show how lapels couhl be made if desired, by 

bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines L — y and b — F. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




40 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Fig. 43 shows our periH-udieular A — B to A — C. "VVe place our funda- 
mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should lie at i and h, in such 
a position that k, our center back at the waist line, falls two (2) unit parts of 
our scale of width from n. 

We next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m, 
and 1 of the side piece falls at a distance of one (1) unit part of our scale of 
width from j. 

From s to and from t to r is oiu' (1) unit part of our scale of width. 
This extra allowance is made to give freer play for the arndiole and side, as 
the shirtwaist must be more roomy than the ordinary tight-fitting garment. The 
line X z. parallel to the waist line t — n of the fundamental pattern, is shown in 

line, and gives an allowance of two inches to correspond to the changes 

in the front. Our fundamental pattern is shown in lines and the addi- 
tions to the pattern in lines. 

In Fig. 43 we notice that we have made a one-piece pattern by joining the 
side and back of our fundamental pattern. The new pattern is three (3) nnit 
parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above. If, how- 
ever, we Avish the back in one piece we lay our pattern just along the length- 
wise fold of our material. 

In Fig. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve in lines. But as 

our armhole in Fig. 43 has been nmde larger Ave shoAv in lines that 

Ave haA-e added ] inch to each of our seams in order to fit tliis changed armhole. 
except along the shoulders, front, and back, where :| inch is alloAved. 

Along the front Ave make an extra albiA\anee of Ij inches in addition to 
the 4 inch already allowed, to be used as facing. 

We Avill shoAV the construction of collars, cufifs, and (litf<'rent sleeves as 
Ave proceed further. 

In Fig. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con- 
struction. otherAvise all the same measurements are to be made as in our former 
pattern. Thi' changes are the foUoAving: 

In Fit;'. 46 the neck cut-out d — f is continued to point e. Avhich is tAA'o (2) 
unit parts of our scab' of Avidtli from the line A — ('. This point e may be con- 
nected Avith g as shoAvn in lines parallel to A — (', Avhich in turn is 

joined to ('. If Ave cut along e — C, as shoAvn in lines, our lap-OA'er Avill 

slope in toward the Avaist, Avhile the otlicr way it Avill contiinu' down in a straight 
line, as in Fig. 45. Tliis increase. hoAvever, is only made on the right side, as only 
this should lap over, Tlu- extra material left in this Avay on the left side Avould 
be not only useless, Init in the Avay and, therefore, should be cut off. 

In Fig. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illus- 
tration. Avith the adilition of the lines on the shouder. corresponding to 

our front iiart. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



41 









1 
1 


crq 






^ (T 






. . 






1 




- - • ■ ' 


'■••.-^ > 


CJ- 






^ ^-^ - 


\ 
\ 


1 


\ 






Cfq' : ] 




\ 


\ y 


y 


4^ 

1 

/ 
^ '' ~ ~ ~ -J 










/ -^ 


> 




\ -"^ ' 




^^ * 


^, 


\ ^^ — 


--"" 'v ■ CD 


crq 

• 




^ 


00 ^"e^^ ^"^ /' 




5S- 


^^--^.^V 




f 


^ 


_:/.^ 


\ 






\ 








a 


1 




\ 




m 
□ 






^ ^ ^ 




c 






■^ ___ 




n 










m 






^ ~ — ~\ 




□ 






^ ■ \ 




H 









^ "^ 






z 
m 






'~:s--—'' 31 ■■■ \ 




■n 




~~ ~ ~~ — — 








c 
31 




Ji' \ \ 




H 
Z 




• 






[---_ 


^ 








""---__ '■/ 






/ 




1 



42 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along tlie center shoulder, 

and also gives the formation of an extra shoulder strap in lines on 

eithei' side of the seam. The liiii's in Fig. 46 — 47 show where this strap 

falls on front and back to make the shoulder illustrated in Fig. 4.'i. 

Fig. 49 shows a Avaist with three (:■>) pleats in front and back, with a 
low eollar-eut in front. 

In Fig. "(O we observe that the neek rounding extends to n, which is one 
and onedialf inches (H) from o, to give the correct V shown in Fig. 49. The 

line f. one and one-half inches (11) from f and the lines parallel to it, 

indicate where the original pattern sliould be cut to give room to make the in- 
serts that are needed to form the pleats. These inserts are i of an inch in width 
in the pattern, but may be increased or diminished according to the width of the 
]deats desired. 

Fig. 51 shows how our iiattern cut with the extra allowance appears. The 

heavy line represents the fold, while the and lines on cither 

side are brought together, and the pleat stitched along the lines. 

Fig. 52 shows the back pattern with lines marking places for 

]ileats to nmtch the front. This pattern is increased exactly in the same fashion 
as the front. 

Fig. ■").'! shows us a waist with a yoke, which can be nuide in front and 
back, or on either side only. Our figure shoMs pleats, but this fullness could be 
gathered instead, both in front and in the Ijack. 

The sleeve shown in this figure has a wide bottom curve, but could be made 
differently, as will be shown later. 

In Fig. 54 the line to e shoAvs the neck cut. The 

111,,, Y — /„ the line s — f and the line v — x — f indicate the cut 

for tile tlii'ee different styles of yokes, nanu'ly the deep, the shorter, and the 
<'Ui'\'e(l yoke. 

Tile jiarallel =^= lines i — g. an inch above v — z, indicate the deep 
\-oke position after proper liending in of niati'rial along both cut edges for seams. 
The short vertical lini's mark the pleats. 

Fig. 55 shows the back with the i-elative yoke cuts; o — 1, the deep, 

in — lines: c — 1, the shorter, in -• lines, and h — t in 

lines, the curve that is necessary to form a point at the center back, if desired. 

We must not forget in Figs. 45, 49, 53, to nnd^e the allowance mentioned 
in connection with Fig. 41, namely f of an inch for side seams, '} of an inch for 
shoulder, center of the back and front, 11 inches in addition to the above men- 
tioned 5 of an inch along the front for facing, and 2 inches for extra length be- 
low tlie waist line. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



43 




44 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



45 



1 /^^^^--^.~-.________^-rrx 




1/ ~ ' \^ 




1 /' ^ 


\ 


1 ' •** • 


\ 


c^L ^^ 


^ 


N^^^S^jJ;. * 




'0 "" -^^^^^^t f r« 






/ 


\ \ ^^\^ 


/ 


° en ^ fr .- ^^~~~-~^ - ~ ~ ~ ~- y' 


»>^ 


*^ / y ^^-—^:r^^ --/' 


—> 


PI .^ >/ ^^.^^^^^^^ / 




1 <^^^^^^^ / 




,^^»^^ I 




C/5 


^ ._ \ 












\ .-.^-"""'T/'' ! 




1 


i 




1 


' ' \ 






' • \ 




, 


! \ 




/ ( 


1 ^ 




/' 1 


1 . \ 




?. ,'-' : 


', i '%;-._ 


rn- 


1 ^ ^ ^ 


1 ' / 
1 ' 

' 1 ' 




> 1 ' 1 


1 . ; 




n • ' 


t , 




' . 1 
o ' 1 


: \ ^ 




ni 1 


h-A • ; 




iTO On 


! ' ^ / 




1 1 




m 1 1 


i cn ! 




g ' • ; 


00 , 




a / • 


\ 




H 1 ' 






; • 


\ 1 I 




/ : 


\ 1 . 






\ 1 \ 




/ ■ ' 


\ . 1 




; ; 


\ 1 1 
\ 1 ' 




/ ■ ' 


\ • 1 










/ ; / 


\ 1 






^ i 




1 ' / 


^ : V 




c^ ' , 


\ I ,J 




^ " ^ _ / 






~~ - ^ ' / 


___—"' 




^-^-> B 


3 sL.r-:::. 


X 



46 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM 

Fig. 56 shows us an upper and under sleeve of our fundamental pattern 
reduced to one-eighth of full size. The two parts are placed in such a position 
Avith reference to tlie liorizontal line A — B, that the points 8 and H are each 3J 
inches from the axis A — B. 

In the figure the full lines show the original sleeve pattern, while the 
lines indicate the allowance necessary to make the sleeve fit the en- 
larged armliole of tlie shirt waist. The lines a , u , and w 

mark tlie different sleeve lengths and widths tliat may be desired. 

Fig. 57 shows us the a.xis line A— B, and the original fundamental sleeve 

pattern in lines. In full lines we see the addition made to widen the 

sleeve pattern in the upper part, to conform with tlie Avider armhole of the 
waist. 

The sleeve pattern has been so placed that tlie distance of tlie points s 
and s from the central axis A — B is Si inches. The point c and e can be placed 
higher or lower as desired, if the sleeve is made in eitlier of these styles. 

Fig. 58 shows us the center line A — B, and our fundamental upper and 
undersleeves. in lines. 

Tlie points s— s are respectively 34 inches from the center line. 

The line from L to s is parallel to our central line A — B, 

and is to be used only as the dividing line of the upper sleeve. It is shown here 
to demonstrate the fact that the width of tlie one-piece sleeve at the bottom, is 
equal to tlie bottom width of upper and under sleeve together; that is, the dis- 
tance s — X equals tlie distance s — r. 

In the undersleeve we cut away the part beyond curve a — r. but we must 
add the curve f — t, equal to o — a. to the upper sleeve, to give the correct arm 
measure. The point t is connected with x. which is the same distance from s as 
r. We have now a one-piece shirt waist sleeve which may be gathered at the 
liottom or made shorter for an attached cuff. 

Collar Construction 

We are now prepared to consider the construction of different styles of 
collars. The construction of a collar always depends upon the cut-out or lapel 
of tlie garment. For a collar which will fit perfectly a low cut neck, will never 
fit a higher cut garment. We must therefore always consider how deep or high 
the cut-out of our garment will be. in order to make a perfect fitting collar, as 
we shall see in the accompanying figures. 

Fig. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars, suitable for shirt waists 
and dresses. The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been 
placed shoulder to shoulder for the construction of onr collars. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



47 



o- 



n- 



m 


c 
n 
m 


^ 





QTQ 




z 
m 


• 


■n 
o 


o 



n- 




48 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



In the front pattern the line a — 1) I'epresents tlie pointed cut-out of the 
neck, and the sluuled in triangle that part tluit is either eut otf or bent back to 
form a lapel. Now following- the neck rounding, along the neck cut-out a — b, 

from b to g in lines, from g to 1 in lines and 1 to e, the center 

back, in lines, we see one collar pattern. Another can be traced from 

b to f in = = == lines, from f to i in lines, and from i to e in 

._. — lines. 

Still another follows the curve l.i — <1 = = = = lines, d to e and e to c in 
lines. 

If. however, the turn back lapel is desired, the collar must be dififerently 
shaped in tlie front. We notice one that, including the lapel in front, follows 

the point of this in lines to f, then proceeds from f to i in 

lines and i to c along the same lines as one of the collars previously con- 
sidered. 

A differently shaped one starts from the lapel point to f in 

and up to i and c and one in -■ lines to t — e and from e to c, the 

center bar!;. 

Fig. 60 shows us more plainly that a collar which perfectly fits a high cut 
neck will never fit a lower eut-out, or visa versa. 

We notice in this figure a very low neck cut from a to b, which is bent 
over for the lapel, as indicated in shaded lines, if desii-ed. 

From 1) in to c, we see a shawl collar rounded in the back or 

pointed to d. In this case no lapel is necessary. 

Another style follows a — b. and then proceeds along the lapel to the point, 

and from there in ^ ^ ^ ^ lines to i, and in •- lines to e. Here also 

there is no extra lapel. 

A dif'fci'eiit one is seen extending from 1i in lines to 1 — g and f. 

Still another shape ean be ti'aeed from 1) in lines to j. and from 

there in lines to h and e. 

If we make a collar from a to the point of the shaded lapel, and from 

there in lines to k, through j to h, over i to e, we cannot fail to 

observe that this collar will not fit a high neck. 

In Fig. 61 the neck cut-out from a to b is shown in lines. Start- 
ing at b in =■ = ■=:■= lines to c — e — f, and i, we have a collar with many points. 

We show another from b in :::::::: lines to d, from there to j, and then in 

lines to 1. 

A smalliM- collar can be traced from b in =■=•=•= to c and in 

lines to r and n. 

A collar rounded in front and square in the liack is shown starting from 
b in lines over the rounding to h and 1. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



49 



Fig.62 



POCKETS 



Reduced to One Fourth 




50 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM 



Pockets 

lu Fig'. 62 we give several styles of pockets, and iu the lowest row three 
different styles of pocket laps. 

In the first row we see the finished pockets a, b and c, and below, indi- 
cated by the same letters, the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at 
tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting, as .shown in the un- 
finished pocket. But we can also make the same straight along tlie top, if we so 
desire. 

d. e and f are finished pockets, and below, designated by the same letters, 
are patterns for the same. The finished pocket e is gathered, and the =----=== 
lines in the pattern show the place of gathering. 

In Fig. 62A we see how we find the position of the pocket, that is where it 
belongs iu the jacket, skirt, or dress. 

In full lines Fig. 62A shows us a front of a jacket, and in lines 

we see an upper sleeve pattern placed with the higliest point of the arndiall to 
the lowest point of our front shoulder seam. 

The pocket is then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the 
full length sleeve. 

Cuffs and Sleeves 

In Fig. 63 we again show different sleeves and cuffs, and again demon- 
strate the cutting of a one-piece sleeve from a two-piece one. 

In this figure, a — b — e, and d, show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown 
in Fig. 58). The cuff's used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a — b — d. The 
tops of the upper cuff' are cut respectively as a — b and c, in the figure. The 

construction lines E — T — R. from the lower to the upper cut. are one 

(1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed, so that the upper cuff should 
not lie flat over the lower one. 

p^lo-. e — g — h shows three dift'erent cuff's, of which we show the construc- 
tion under e — g — h. Tlie uudersleeve in this pattern is marked in 

lines and the upper sleeve in full lines. Tlie sleeves are placed with under arm 
seams joining. Cuff' — in full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. The same pat- 
tern, but pointed at the top, as shown iu e — g — li, is used for cuff h. In the 

same figure, partly in full and partly in lines, is the pattern for g. This 

cuff has its seam in the center of the under sleeve and therefore extends from 
F to F beyond. 

The construction of sleeve f— i— k is illustrated iu Fig. f — i— k. 

The dotted curves from r to s, through A — B. show the required shape for 
bell shaped portion of sleeve f. The heavy dotted lines added to our upper sleeve 
su])ply tlie extra width necessary to make tlie three (3) tucks shown iu f. 

Sleeves i and k. about identical with Fig. 57, are widened in the upper 
sleeve in the same way as sleeve f. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



51 




52 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Cutting of a Circular Skirt Pattern 

A skii't cau be made in one, two, three or more pieces, but tlie width of the 
bottom depends npon prevailing fashion. 

First we will endeavor to show how to cut a pattern for a circular skirt. 

Remember that all skirts are cut and rcuieasured in inches, as taken on the 
model for wliom they are intended. 

We have shown previously in Fig. 12 and 13, how the waist line is con- 
structed, and we recall that we had made this with a piece of thread held with 
the thumb of the left hand, and a pointed pencil looped througli the thread 
forming the arc. 

Witli the tailors' square we form the perpendicular A — B to A — C as shown 
in Fig. 64. On line A — B mark point x 2 inches from A. On line A— C mark 
point a eighteen (18) inches from point A. Seven (7) inches from a, mark f, 
the starting point of the liip line. 

Next holding the tliread circle maker at x, Avith the left thumb, with the 
point of the pencil start at a and mark oft' arc a — e for the waist line. Form the 
hip line f — g in the same manner. We next proceed to build our pattern from the 
measurement of the model previously taken. 

In Fig. 64 our model measurements are used. 

Length of skirt. :;{6 inches in front. 

Lengtli of side. 36^ inches. 

Waist measure, 26 inches. (13 inches one-lialf of tlie measure). 

Length of back, 37 inches. 

Hip measure, 40 inches. (20 inches onc-lialf of the measure). 

From a along a — C measure the front length of tlie skirt (36 inches in 
the figure.) 

P^rom a, in a curve along tlie waist line, measure one-half around the waist 
measure (i:> inches in the figure "i. marking the point e. Along tlu' hip line from 
f. mark oft' at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure). 

The point c, eciiiidistant from a, and e, marks the starting point of our side 
line, as this line is invariably lialf way between tlie center front and the center 
back. 

As we liave licfore mentioned, the skirt widths vary with fashion's dictates. 
We use for our model here a bottom width of two and one-half (24) yards, and 
lati'r show how this may be increased or diminished. 

From C which marks the length of the skirt at the center front, measure 
along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or one-half the width of the half 
skirt, marking the point n. From n in this way rei^eat this measurement to i. 



PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 



53 




54 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Connect e with n, and e and g- witli i. Tliese lines give us respectively the side 
line and center liack of our skirt. Along the si<lc lini' mark off a distance equal 
to tile side length measurement of the model (here '-'iGl inches). Along the center 
back measure oft' the reqiiired length of back for the model (37 inches in figure). 

Be careful to remeasure to secure accuracy. Now draw the bottom curve, 
connecting the points marked to form the bottom sweep of the skirt. 

As all patterns are without seams, we must allow § of an inch for these 
seams, and make an extra allowance at the top and liottom for the hem. 

The finished skirt is shown in Fig. (if). The pockets, should we desire the 
same, we will find in Fig. 62. 

Above P'ig. 64, we notice yoke patterns in lines. One is circular 

with the waist line, and the other pointed in the front. These yokes are cut 
exactly to the rounding of our waist line, and fit smoothly to the body. 

Furtlicr necessary explanation relative to the back of the skirt, will be 
given in the discussion following Fig. 66. In Fig. 66 we see the same circular 
skirt, differently constructed, but giving us the same results if compared. 

We have the perpendicular A — P> to A — ('. Fi-om A we measure four inches 
to a, along A — C, and from a, the point just made mark oft' at C a distance equal 
to the length of the front. 

Next from a. in a slant along A — B mark off at e a distance equal to one- 
half around the waist measure (13 inches in the illustration). Connect a — e with 
lines, and mark the center of this line o. 

As the width of this skirt is identical -witJi that of Fig. 65. our method 
of procedure to secure propi'r length of side, of back and lower sweep is the 
same as previously given. 

Fr(un point o, measure on a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to c. Connect a and e 
through c, with a curve to form the waist line. 

As the body curves in in the center back at the waist line, it is necessary 
to make a small cut-out from the straiglit length of the back. In Fig. 66 below 
e, tills is indicated as a V between tlie dotted and the heavy line. 

On either side of the line marking the length of side o, c, n, we see 

the lines nuirked by r and s at the l)ottoin of the skirt, meeting one an- 
other at the hip line. If the skirt is made in two parts these lines indicate how 
it is possible to make the skirt narrower. From the hip to the waist line, a 
small triangle is shown meeting the waist line on(>-half of an incli on either side 
of c. This triangle shows the part to be eliminated in case the skirt is made in 
two parts, in order to insure a perfect fit. Tims we find that our curved waist 
is made exactly l:-! inches, by the cut-out of one (1) inch at c, and of one-half 
(^) of an inch at e. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



55 



Both of our illustrations 64 and 66 could be cut in one or two pieces. If 
cut in one piece, the lengtli of front is placed on the fold of the nuiterial. If 
cut in two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result 
the two bias pieces meet at the sides. Care must be taken to tape both of these 
seams, to prevent sagging of the material. 

Fig. H shows a belt in the heavy lines. Two pointed yokes in different 

shapes are marked in and lines. These are formed ou the same 

principle as Fig. 66. 



sFig.66 




Fig. 


H 




\ 
\ 

-V 








■ ~ ~ 






56 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Cutting of the Gored and Pleated Skirt 

"We iK.'xt lU'iiioustratc thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt, and the 
])lrated skirt. In order to be able to divide tlie widths of our gores in proper 
]ii-oportions we must decide upon tlie width of the skirt ai'ound tlu= bottom. 

Pig. 67 sliows a four-gorinl skirt measuring two and one-ludf (2i) yards 
around tin' Ixittom. Tlie gores slunv they are cut from nuiterial .')() inches wide. 

This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and a back 
part cut on the fold. The same is sliglitly gathered. 

We mention again that all skirt patterns are cut from measurenu'nts taken 
from our figure, and are without seam or hem allowance, which must be added 
in cutting the goods. Fig, 6SA shows A — C perpendicular to A — B, 

From A along liue A — C mark points e — r — s, three-fourth (f ) of an inch 

apart. Fi'om s measure ofl the length of the front along A — C to the 

dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). From this line measure J 
of an inch to ('. 

From C" unvisure 16 inches to i on the auxiliary liue. Tins gives us the 
half of tlir bottdiii -width of the front gore, as tlie center front is laid on the 
fold of the material. 

Along A — B nu^asure 6 inches from A marking point o. Connect o and i. 
From i — o along r measure in to E a distance of 1-^ inches. Connect s E with a 
curved line, Fi'om the hip point u make the rounding u E, The waist line s E 
measui'e 4^ inches. 

Fig. 6S, B shows m — n parallel to< A — C, Measure 16 inches from n to ,i 
and li inches fi-om ni to g, (^'oiuiect g and j. The cut-outs from m to E 
and from g to E are H inches each, or 'S inches together. Thus our waist liue 
from E to E measures 4,^ inches. 

Fig. 6S, C shows h — k parallel to A — B, The bottom line from k to 1 is 
14 inches. From h to t. a cut-out of 11 inches is made, which leaves 12} inches 
for tlie waist liiu' of the back gore. This width we gather to one-third, which 
gives us a waist measure of 4 inches. If we add tlie waist measures of the dif- 
ferent gores 4.^ inches, plus 4i inches, plus 4 inches, our total half waist measure 
is 13 inches, which we find correct for this model, 

AVe notice that all our cut-outs at the waist line in Fig, 68 A — B — C are 
made fi'om u. This point is the hip liue 7 inches below the Avaist line. 

We ol)serve also that the bottom of gores A and B are rounded to the 
auxiliary lines, and the Imck gore is left straight on the bottom. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



57 




t/i-n^ 



X 

m 
a 

c 
n 



From- E -To- 11 -Same as From- e -To -j - . 



Length of Sides ..sy. 




CR 



FROM-t- TO -l^- SAME AS FROM- E-TO- j - 



n 



CENTER Length of Back on 



^a 



58 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

Tlie sides of patterns A — B — C are marked to sliow joining seams, wliich 
are the same length as shown in the figures. 

The ■- lines in B indicate the line along which we remeasure the 

length of side. 

The short parallel lines in C indicate gathers. 

Fig. 69 shows us practically the saun' etit'ect skirt, the oidy difference being 
that Fig. 67 and 68 gave a four-gored skirt, whereas this is a skirt in six gores. 
This change is partly due to fashion and jiartly to thi' fact that the material is 
too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without jiiecing. 

The perpendicular A — B to A — C and tJie measurements from A to e — r — s, 
and the lengths from A to C, m to n, x to a, anil li to k, aiT unchanged. 

The bottom of the skirt is 2:i yards wide, there being 20 inches each in 
front and back gores. l>otli of whicli are laid on folds, and 10 inclu'S in each of 
the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double we must remember). This 
gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt. 

At the top of Fig. 70. A, from A to o is 4 inches, in B, from m to g 6 
inches, in C, from x to z 6 inches, and in T). fi'om h to B 10 inches. The cut-outs 
— u — E. g — u — E. m — u — E. x — u — E. z^u — E and h — u — t are each 1] inches in 
width. Adding the front and side waist line nn_-asurements we get 9 inches. This 
plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist 
measurement. 

Further Ave observe the lines from w to k, in pattern D. which 

we foIloAv sliould Ml- desire to leave out the gathering in the back, and make a 
fitting back. 

Fig. 71 shows a plaited skirt. There plaits can be made closer together 
or farther apart as desired. 

Fig. 72 from A to B gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt. The center 
front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing tin- back. 

Fig. 73 shows l)ox plaits wiiich can lie jilaced closei' oi- farther apart as 
desired. 

In the next few lessons we will show how to diangc our fundamental 
waist pattern, to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli in front and back. 

We will also endeavor to show how to make a variety of dresses by combin- 
ing different skirts and waists. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



59 




From- J^ -To -t- Same as From E-To-C- 



Cente 



„ Length of Back on 



Fold 



D3 



60 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



■PQ 



anoj NO 



d3i.N30 



-< 



\.... 



bJD 



N - 



anod NO >i3j.Na3 



X 

. h 

X 

o 
u 



z 



CO 2 



bJDa 



-U 



-c/i 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 61 



Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed to the Shoulder in 

Front and Back 

Fig. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front, and a waists with seams 
to the shoulder both in front and back. These seams take the place of the usual 
dart, and extend entirely to the shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect. 

Fig. 74 shows the perpendicular A — B to A — C, the fundamental waist pat- 
tern in full lines, the former basque front in lines a — e, and the front 

line of the dart in lines from j. 

From point i on the shoulder line, Avhieh is two unit parts of our scale of 

width distant from the armhole, connect i — j in lines for a construction 

line. Then draAv the slightly bov.'-shaped line i — j, in full lines, so that o is one- 
half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. Connect o and the second 
dart with a slight rounding. 

Cutting along the full lines we have now divided our front into two pieces 
with seams reaching to the shoulder. 

Fig. 75 illustrates the formation of a back pattern with seams reaching from 
the waist to the shoulder. 

The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is 

shown in full lines. The line t — s is the basque back, originally made. 

The — lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque 

to from the one-piece shirt waist back. 

From point h on the shoulder line, two unit parts of the scale of width 

from the armhole, draw h — g in lines. Next draw the full line h — g, 

curved about one-half (1) of an inch slightly to the right. Connect the former side 
lines with this line, as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. Cut- 
ting along this line will give ns a two-piece back with a seam from the shoulder 
to the waist. 

In both Fig. 74 and 75 the waist extends only to the waist line. We must 
add about two inches to this length in order to properly connect waist and .skirt, 
and to finish neatly. 

As mentioned before we must allow for all seams. For the proper lapping 
of buttons and button holes, in the front we must have an additional allowance 
or provide a separate piece for facing. 

We must also mention here that the point of the cut-out of the neck, is 
invariably the point where the collar starts. 

In Fig. 77 we shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back, and plaited both in 
front and back below the yoke. This is a combination plaited skirt, and bodice 
made from a shirt Avaist pattern, Avith collar as desired. The bodice and skirt are 
joined at the Avaist line to the belt of the skirt. 

Fig. 78 is a plain skirt and shirt Avaist. extended to the desired length. The 
belt reaches twice around the Avaist line, and ties in front. 

Fig. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined 
at the Avaist line. The belt ties in front, and a pocket is placed on the right side. 

Fig. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. It is 
made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in 
Figs. 59, 60, 6L 



62 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




CQ 





PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 



63 







64 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



Arranging the Fundamental Pattern for Suits, Jackets and Outer Garments 

As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. In this 
chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our funda- 
mental pattern. 

Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown, will give any kind of loose 
jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts. 

In Fig. Si we give a jacket of a suit, which resembles Fig. 74, the only 
difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line, 
while Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. All explanations and measurements are the 
same as previously given. 

A 




REDUCED TO ONE FOURTH 




C 
o 



c 

O 



111 



C 



PARISIAN LADIES' lAILORING SYSTEM 



65 



We notice also in Pig. 81 a piece marked front facing-, wliicli is a dnplicate 
of the front part, but is only 2iV inches wide. To this we must make all additions 
from A to C as exijlained with reference to the front in Fig. 74. 

Fig. 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the same as in Fig. 
75, but instead of drafting the pattern to the waist line, we continue it to the 
hip line. 

In Fig. 75 the side part, as we notice, extends from h to z at the waist 
line, and the Avidth of the back at the Avaist line from g to r, that is to say, that 
the back from h to t is just as wide as from g to r with a little curving in be- 
tween. 



B 



u 




Hyp 
w 

Reduced to One Fourtfh 



-ine 



A 

t 



C 



We notice in Fig. 82 the 

construction line connecting h — 1. 
The point 1 could be brought either 
to the i-ight or left of its present 
l^osition. without aft'ecting the shape 
of the pattern. Its position deter- 
mines the narroAvness of tlie back at 

line thus making our back 

smaller at the waist line. 

The distance 1 — x. our cut-out, is 
equal to g — z. From x draw the 

heavy curve parallel to z — • 

h meeting the back about at the 
same height as formerly, and form- 
ing a new side line which folloAvs 
the exact curve of the other, x and 
1 are connected with w at the hip 
line. 

We notice noAV that the pattern 
is broad across the shoulder blade in 
the back and curves in to a narrow 
waist line. Through this change the 
side part is Avider than formerly. 

Fig. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket 
seamed from the slioulder both in 
front and back, extending to the liip 
line, or any length desired. This in 
coiniection Avith a skirt gi\'es us a 
tAvo-piece suit. Sleeves, pockets, 
cuffs, and suitable collar, are in ac- 
cordance Avith explanation previous- 
ly made. 

Before Ave jDroceed any further, 
hoAvcA'er, Ave Avill consider the mak- 
ing of tailor-made collars. 



66 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

The Cutting of Collars for Tailored Suits and Cloaks 

111 Fig'. 83 "we see a standing collar M"itli a pointed or roniided top. 

Tile diagrams a and b are the same except that a is rounded, and b 
pointed in I'ront. Otlierwise. as we notice, they have the same measurements. 

In a and li there are two sets of auxiliary lines placed two inches 

apart. The distance between the two lines in each set is i of an inch. 

The length of these lines is the half h'ligtli of the collar, namely 60 inches. 
We see in the pattern how the collar is shap(Ml around them. 

In a. wr notici' that a rounding is made in front and in b, that :,' of an 
inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes. 

Fig. d and i- sliow a poinfrd and a roundi'd collar. 

Diagrams c and d explain how these are made. The center line 

is 2i inches from the base, and the top 2 inches from this center line. 

The rounded upper cut-out is connected Avitli the upper curve of the stand- 
ing collar, and as botli are the same width, they will fit exactly leaving the extra 
allowance free for buttons and Intttonholes. 

Diagram e, presents a front with a la]iel and a tailored turn-down collar 
in lines. In full lines we see how the collar appears turned over in po- 
sition. 

In liiii-s we see an allowance oi 11 inehes for lapping in front. An 

extra front facing must also lie cut for the garment. 

For collar pattern e, draw line A — O S^ inehes long. Line U is placed J 
of an inch below A — 0, parallel to it, and line I) paralbd to A — li inches above 
it. The perpendicular E is drawn 51- inches to the left of A. Point N on line U is 
half way lietweeii and E. From N draw curve N — A meeting — A half way 
between E and A: tliis gives the bend of tlic i-oljar. The collar is completed by 
connecting O and T. and O and D, with eur\'cs as s]lo^^•n in the figure. 

At tli(> center liardv we notice a triangular cut whi<-h gives the collar the 
correct shape if made in two pieces. If however, the collar is cut in one, on a 
fold at 1) — A — U, the lower portion N — A — V must be pressed in. while tlie upper 
part X — O — D — A must be strrtcheil. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for 
a good tit. 

Fig. f, shows the same coat with a shawl eollar. 

In the working diagram f, A — O is 10' inches long, E 5i inches from A. U 
J inches below — A, and D Ti inehes above it. The lower curve on is the 
same as in Fig. e, previously shown. The curve O — D crosses line E about -J 
inch from the top. The same principle applies to the shaping of this eollar at 
the center back as previously explained for Fig. e. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



67 



Fig. 8 3 COLLARS. 





Reduced to One Fourth 





— _ J 


f E 


^ 1 


^^^^^ 




N 






^^ E 


---, 


^^^ 


\ 


N^' 


■ 




Reduced to One Sixth 





68 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



In diagi-ain g. Ave see the same collar as exijlaiued in e, except that here 
the lapel as well as the collar is rounded. 

Diagram h, shows iis the same as diagram e, but we see in lines 

that we have added a piece at the neck cut-out. to get a longer and more 
pointed lapel. The collar is the same as in e. In cutting our front facing we 
must not omit this extra piece, in order to make it correspond with h. 

Fig. 84, A shows a tailor-made jacket, IS inches long which can also be 
used for a suit coat. It is tight fitting and has turned back cufifs. and high 
turned-down collar. 

84 F, shows the fundamental front 'lattern with darts in lines. 

There is also a line marking the seamed front from the dart lines to 

shoulder. Either front can be used for the pattern. 

The cut-out for the neck in the fi'ont is always the starting point of the 
collar. 

G shows thr side, and II tin' back of the fundamental pattern in 

lines. 

TIu' waist lini' in F — G and II is marked with lines, and the hip 

with lines. 

Along tlie center back in H we notice below the waist line a tlap one inch 
wide for the slit if we intend to make one. 

All parts of Fig. 84 F — G and II are without scams which we must add: 
one and one-half (II) inch in front and an extra facing as explained in Fig. 81 
being needed. 

R and N are the patterns of the two-piece sleeve used in this jacket. 

Fig. 85 shows an IS-inch jacket semi-iltting in back and loose in front. 

N is a pattern of a front facing, and F — G and II show the fundamental 

pattern to the waist line in lines with collar and lapel likewise so 

marked. 

F shows tile right angle cutting through the starting point of the collar 
and the extra inch and one-half added in front. As the distance of two inches, 
from the fundamental pattern to the iiei'iiendicular is also allowed in accordance 
with previously given patterns, we readily see how we secui'e the loose front 
shown in A. 

In II the back piece, the same allowance of two inches at the Avaist line, 
which has previously lieen explained, gives the looser back. 

D is a pocket. O a enlf, and R a collar, tlie measurements for which liave 
lieen previously explained in Fig. 8.3 e. 

Fig. 86, A shows a loose jacket to be used either for a suit or coat. It is 
18 inches long, extending 10 inclies below the waist line. Our illustration is 
made with belt and pockets. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



69 




R 



/ I 



N 



/ 
' / 

/ ; 

/ / 

/ / 

/ / 

/ 



/ Fig. 84 






I •-• I 

' ) 

\ ; 

\ / 

\ / 

. y- ■ ]• 

* I 



I 







Reduced to One Sixth 



70 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

We see in F and 6 the fundamental pattern to the waist line in 

lines and as this garment is cut on the order of a waist, we have added two (2) 
unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front and an extra allowance 
for buttons and liuttonholes. 

The tailored lapel and collar begin at the neck cut-out; the lines 

show how these look Avhen finished. 

In G we have allowed one unit part from the armliole to the waist line, 
down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former constructions and as 
we have made the seamed front, F and G must each be cut separately. 

H and D are also separated by the seam from the shoulder, and the 

lines in H show the allowance necessary to conform with the waist pattern. D, 
which is a straight back, should be cut on the fold at the center back. 

In R and N the upper and nndersleeve patterns, we notice in lines 

the allowance of |- of an inch on each seam made in the upper parts of the sleeve 
to conform with the allowance in the armhole of the side piece. 

Fig. 87, A shows a semi-fitting jacket which could also be used for a suit 
coat. The front and back are seamed to the shoulder, and the pointed lapel is 
larger than previously shown. 

In F in lines we have the fundanu'ntal pattern to the waist line. 

At the neek cut-out, the addition for the pointinl and larger lapel, I of an inch 

in width is marked by lines slanting in from the collar to the waist line. 

The bottom front can be cut either sqiiare or rounded as illustrated. 

G shows the regular pattern, and both F and G are cut separately as indi- 
cated by the seam in the front. 

In 11 and I the lines show side and liack pattern joined and also 

the construction of the l)aek narrowed in at the waist line. 

AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pat- 
tern and a small replica of the tailor-made collar, the measurements and the con- 
struction of which are given in Fig. 83 e. 

The pattern for the upper and lower parts of the two-piece sleeve is also 
given. 

Fig. SS shows a double brea.sted jacket with a plain turned-down collar 
composed of the standing collar of Fig.SU h. and the turned-down portion of 
Fig. 83 d. In F in lines to tlu' waist line we have the fundamental pat- 
tern. N to the lines shows the usual addition from the collar jjoint a. 

The distance between these lines and the line marks an addi- 
tional allowance of 2^ inches for the double-breasted effect. 

N is cut in one piece with F. 6 is cut separately. A front facing as 
shown in Fig. 81 must also be made. If tlie double-breasted effect is desired 
the additioiud allowance of 2h inches as previously explained must also be made 
to the facing. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



71 




1 

D 





r 


R- 












'%rjj 









^ r" 



Nl 



— ; — r ~j - - - _ — 



; Fig.85 




Reduced to One SiXTH 



72 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




Reduced to One Sixth 



PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 



73 




74 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

II and I again show the fundamental patterns phieed in tlieir relatively 

positions in lines, but each of these parts is cut separately as indicated 

liy the lines. 

Furthermore we notice from the waistline downward in F, H and I an 

extra allowance of 2-^ inches outlined Avith lines slanting from the 

waist line, for a ripple or flare in the back as shown in Fig. B, should we desire 
the same. 

Any of the patterns formerly shown could Vie used for a garment of any 
length by simply prolonging the pattern to the length desired. 

Fig. 89. F shows a long cloak with turned down collar, large pockets, deep 
cuffs and belt. 

The diagrams A and T show in line and in line the 

fundamental pattern to the waist line, and in heavy lines the usual addition from 
the ai'mhole to the waist at the side. 

From A the neck point we see the addition to the front to G. The lower 
front piece A is cvit in one with the front waist, and measures along the bottom 
24 inches from G to H. T is cut separately, and is 15 inches wide both at the top 

and l)ottom. The distance between the lines and in lines the 

from the second dart downward is the allowance for the seam. 

We see tliat T extends i inch above the Avaist line, and that J of an inch 
is allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down. These 
allowances are for seams. • 

The short lines along R — indicate that this part should be gathei'ed to 
the width of the front side piece. 

In C we see in one piece marked in lines, the back and side with 

the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern, and also with the ad- 
dition from the armhole to the waist along the side. This pattern is cut on the 
fold as shown, and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V. E and N 
show the regular fundamental sleeve in fidl lines, and in lines tin:' ad- 
dition made to fit the enlarged armhole. 

The = = === lines mark a length of 48 inches from the neck, the full 
length of pattern being 54 inches. 

The collar of this coat could be cut in two pieces according to Figs. S3 b 
and 83 d. or after pattern II Pig. 89. 

In H we have a one-piece turned down collar. F and E are parallel to S 
at the respective distances of 2^ and 3^ inches. 

R and F are each 15 inches long and connected as shown in the figure. 
P'rom points '[ of an inch from each end of F perpendiculars are drawn to E 

in lines, making E 131 inches long the correct collar measurement. The 

lines from F to E show a possible cut for a collar if desired. The 

extra pieces ■; of an inch on each side between F and S. serve as allowances for 
liutton and buttonholes. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



75 




76 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




PARISIAN LADIES- TAILORING SYSTEM 



77 





78 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 

The bottom curve below S gives a better fitting collar and allows a freer 
ueck movement. 

We could cut this coat in a different fashion. The entire upper portion 
could be cut to the waist line and tlie lower portion to R, and the part from H 
to G could also be separate pieces. 

Fig. 90. R shows a double-breasted coat with pockets, cuffs, belt and a 
standing collar to which a sailor collar is attached. 

F shows the front facing, and S and O the two pieces in lines. 

We have also the regular fundamental pattern with the addition to the waist line. 

At the neck cut-out, we notice in lines along the length the regu- 
lar addition foi- buttons and buttonholes, and in full lines 2J inches from C to R 
the addition for the double-breasted coat. 

The upper waist portion is extended below the waist line from E to S, 
and the lower part extended above the waist line, to E — S. These two addi- 
tions are necessary for the seam allowance. 

The garment measures 251 inches along the bottom from R to P. AVhile the 
additional piece measures 6 inches at the top from E to S and lOJ inches along 
the liottom from P to C. 

Diagram Y shows the addition to the fundamental pattern in lines. 

The back and side parts are cut together. They extend i inch below the waist 
line, this being tlie allowance for the seam. 

L is cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for 
the seam. The bottom from L to F measures 25 inches. 

We notice that L is gathered at the top from the center of the back to 
the center ]iack seam. 

]M and I show the regular sleeves in full lines and the addition 

for the wider armluile in lines. 

This coat is 36 inches from the waist to the bottom, or 54 inches through 
the entire front length. The :=^== Hues are 6 inches from the bottom. 

Fig. 91. R shows a single-breasted coat seamed to shoulder in front and 
back with lapel and tailor-made collar, and attached cuffs. 

E shows the front facing and L and G tlie two pieces of the front, the 
addition in front being allowed for buttons and buttonholes. 

N is the side part, and the back, whieli is cut on the fold as indicated, is 
marked A. 

d. b and m show the construction of the cuff. 

In all five pieces of this pattern we notice the lines wliich indicate 

where to cut this pattern, should we desire a 42-ineli length coat, the whole 
length being 54 inches. 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



79 




m 



Front Facing 





80 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 81 

Along the bottom the widths are as follows : From R to L 15 inches, from 
L to F 16| inches, the side part from A to T 15 inches, and the back from E to 
M 7| inches. Thns the half width of this garment will measure 54 inches, and the 
Avhole sweep of the coat will be 3 yards. 

Fig. 92, G shows about the same coat in double-breasted effect. H is the 
front facing, T and R the seamed front parts, A and E the seamed side and back 
pieces, the latter of which is cut on the fold. 

The length of this coat is 54 inches to the bottom, or 48 inches to the 
= ^ = = lines, but it could be made any length desired. 

The width of the bottom is as follows : 16^ inches from F to 0, 164 
inches from L to C, 13 inches from A to R, and 10| inches from S to B. 

a and b show the regular fundamental sleeve, and c the regular tailor- 
made lapel collar. The lines mark a collar deeper in front and wider in 

back, and the lines one still wider both in front and back. 

We again wish to impress the fact that all our patterns are made without 
seams, and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in 
cutting the material. 

f of an inch allowance should be made for all seams unless otherwise 
stated. At the shoulders, the back center seam (if cut in two pieces) and along 
the front, f of an inch is required. Along the front an extra allowance must be 
made for facing. 

When heavy weight material is used for jackets and "coats, it is necessary 
to make an additional allowance of ^ of an inch at all seams to take care of the 
extra bulk of material. 



82 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



The Cutting of All Kinds of Capes According the Fundamental Pattern 

Fig. 9o, W shows us a cape wiiich we can make any desired length. 

Fig. 93 shows in lines the front and back of the fundamental 

pattern laid along A — B and A — C. These lines are made with the tailors' square 
perpendictdar to each other as previously explained. 



A 



Fig. 93 



B 



,i4 
OQ 



1^— ^ 






s ' 

\ I 

•. I 

I 

\ 



Front 



'■\ 







REDUCED TO One fourth 



Vd- 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



83 



The front neck cut-out is placed along A — C in such a way, that tlie waist 
line d is two unit parts of the scale of width from A — C. Tlie shouhler line of 
tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point, and the neck 
cut-out of the back lies along A — B in such a position that the waist line u is 
two unit parts of the scale of width from A — B. 

We next connect a, the 
highest point of the front 
shoulder line with c, the 
highest point of the side 

armhole in line 

; as shown in Fig. 93, and 

'-N, ■ "^^ prolong this line 

to e. This gives us a side 
line for remeasuring the 
length desired for the 
cape. 



«N 



Fig. 94 






\ 



;/ 



\ 
\ \ 

\ 



\ 



\ 



o(. 



V-- 



Front 






\ \ 



I I 
/ / 



\ 



/ 



/ 



/ 



/ 



, REDUCED TO ONE SIXTH 



/ 



/ 



/ 



/ 



/ 



y.\ 



/ 



/ 



>k 



From tlie neck cut-out 
of botli front and back we 
now mark off the lengths 
desired by a circular line 
passing thi-ough the side 
line connecting front and 
back, Avhich will give us 
the bottom of the cape- 
rounding. 

The cape shown in tliis 
figure is seamed along the 
shoulder as we notice by 
the V cut between front 
and back shoulder seams. 

Fig. 9-t shows another 
cape without seams. 

In this pattern our con- 
struction line is A — B, and 
the fi'ont fundamental 
pattern is placed along 
this line, so that d falls 
two unit parts of the scale 
of width from it. 



4---'-"' ^^ The shoiilder seam of 

— --^ the back is now placed to 

' the shoulder of the front 

so that the neck cut-out of both front and back forms a semi-circle. 



We now joint the ends of this semi-circle 
center of the line a. 



with- 



lines, marking the 



84 



PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 



We next mark tlic desired lengtli of the front, tlien tlie desired length of 
tlie side fi'oni tlie slioulder line neek eut-out. and tlie desired length of the back 
from o to e. and draw tlirough these iDoints a semi-eirele with a as the center 

point. In the fignre tliree ditTerent lengths are given marked in lines, 

lines and lines. 

The center of the back o — c is laid out on the fold of the material. If a 
more flaring cape is desired, onr line o — e may be pivoted from o towards c — A 
any distance desired, as this will give lis a more flaring ett'ect. 




Fig. 95 gives a cape with a separate 
sleeve set-in, which can be extended 
the full length of the cape or cut 
shorter if desired as shown in Fig. 96. 

The construction of both of these 

capes is shown in Fig. 94 in 

lines. The sleeve is shown by an are 
from k through d. the highest point of 
the shoulders to g. 

Cutting along tliis line will give 
us the front and liack in one piece; the 
second piece is the so-called sleeve as 
demonstrated in Fig. 95. 



Fig. 96 shows the same cape with a 
shawl collar instead of a high standing 
one. The sleeve part joining the back 
and front is cut away after the desired 
length of sleeve is reached. 

The corresponding parts are sewed 
together to form the sleeve. 

The darts shown in the front funda- 
mental pattern are ignored in cape 
making. 




PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 85 



Table HI 



For Professional Designers 

(See Table III— IV) 



In examining the upper sleeve pattern for a 36 figure marked in heavy 
lines, we notice construction lines from A to B and A to C in lines. 

These lines make respectively larger and smaller arm-halls as indicated by 
A — B, and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A — C. 

The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of 
an inch apart in the upper arm back-seam, both in width and length, but at the 
top of the arm-ball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm 
seam. 

In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. A — B and A — 
C in lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the under- 
arm cut-out. and highest and lowest elbow point. 

The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width, and § of an inch is allowed, 
the same as in the iipper sleeve for the length. 

The curve of the underarm cut-out increases in enlarging, and decreases in 
diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under- 
arm seam. 

Table IV 

The front of our fundamental pattern for a full size 36 figure is here shown 
iu lines. 

Note the lines from points {' to E and D. and from point F to K 

through C and F to S. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. In 
front and at the sides ' /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. 

In the side part we see the lines N — — V and — P. — P is the 

guide for grading to sizes smaller than 36, and — U to those larger than the regu- 
lar 36. The grading lines are ^/^,. of an inch apart. 

In the back the grading lines are on the average '/-^^ of an inch apart, 
the construction of same being guided by the line A — B. 

By adding the grading distances of the front "/j,., side 'Vni, and back '/,,., 
we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch. Doubling this on the 
whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern, as all patterns are graded on a 
two-inch scale. 

The table also includes a schedule of all necessary measurements from 30 
to 48 bust measure. 

Remarks 

As all patterns are made without seams, we must allow | of an inch for all 
seams in the upper and under sleeves, and li inches in the length for turning 
under and facing. 

In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams, except at the front, 
shoulders, and center back, where an allowance of J of an inch is made. 

In addition to this, to the center front an allowance of li inches is made 
for single-breasted effect, and from 2 to 2i inches for double-breasted garments. 

The usual | of an inch allowance is made for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc. 



\ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 063 989 8 



